The wines of Chinon—The expression of a terroir

Known mainly for its red wines, the Chinon appellation has been celebrated by  great writers like Rabelais, Ronsard and Balzac. It’s one of the greatest expressions of Loire wines.

Of wine and men! The vine reaches back to the days of Roman Gaul, when the Roman  legions of the 4th century pioneered viticulture in the region. Later, Abbey monks and  monasteries developed their wineries. Chinon’s reputation made its mark in the 11th century. Following the French Revolution, the vine experienced a catastrophic century of serious disease, including blight, powdery mildew, and worst of all, phylloxera. After the hard work replanting American vines, the winery was reconstituted and its AOC (appellation d’origine contrôlée) obtained in 1937. Today, two hundred vineyards produce 15 million bottles annually from 2,360 hectares distributed over 18 communes. Lower down, terrasses of sand and gravel line the shores of the Vienne and the left bank of the Loire. Higher up, limestone mounds and bluffs overlook siliceous sand and flint clay plateaus. This is the land of the so-called “Breton” Cabernet Franc which produces reds and rosés, along with a few parcels of Cabernet-Sauvignon. The reds range from ready to drink (being light, and easy-drinking) to laying-down wines (which are structured, and tannic). The rare and subtle whites are made with Chenin grapes. Many wineries hold tastings in their cellars carved into the tufa, the lovely chalk limestone of Touraine. These cellars maintain a steady temperature throughout the year, allowing the wine to rest in peace. Gargantua’s Rabelaisian palate was tantalized: “This is pineau wine!… Oh, sweet white wine! And bless my soul, this wine is smooth as silk!”

Farms and manors: A richly built heritage

While tufa chalk and slate reign throughout Chinon, in Richelieu they share the landscape with the warmer tones of roundstone masonry and clay tiles.

The region of southern Chinon and Richelieu is rich with a fascinating history and architectural heritage of great interest: the ancient city of Chinon with its dominating fortress, the castle of Riveau and the town of Richelieu. You’ll also find little masterpieces like the Notre-Dame church in Rivière. Many Ligré manors are equally remarkable, including Villeneuve, Beauvais, Sassay, La Rajace; not to mention the hamlet of Roches Saint-Paul.

The region’s agricultural and winemaking resources have driven its prosperity and permitted the construction of churches, large farms, castles and manors. For the most part, their common ingredient is tufa, the fine-grained limestone that’s the result of the slow transformation of 90 million-year-old marine sediment into rock. The white or light cream-coloured tufa extracted from the bluffs was used to build nearly all the large buildings and castles. The galleries dug to extract the tufa between the 11th and 19th centuries were later used as caves along the valley of Loire and Vienne. Tufa was extracted in chiselled blocks and transported over waterways on barges, typically Ligerian watercraft used to transport merchandise. But the Richelieu area is distinguished by the use of harder limestone rubble which gives the façades a peculiar graphic look accentuated by their light colour.

Another regional element, slate, began to spread in the 19th century. In the past, it was only used to roof rich homes due to its high cost, since it was brought in from Anjou. It’s omnipresent in the Chinon region but clay tiles, originally from the Pays d’Oc, remain a specific component of the Richelieu area, in combination with slate.

Rabelais at home in La Devinière

The writer’s universal work can’t be reduced solely to the serious, nor to the foolish. For this literary giant, the portrait greatly outsizes the frame.

La Devinière in Seuilly—the farm building where François Rabelais was born, probably in 1494. His descendant, the adult Rabelais, would not return to La Devinière —which remained in his family’s possession—until the middle of the 17th century. Grandgousier Castle, birthplace of Gargantua. Rabelais turned La Devinière into the seat of this dynasty of giants. It became the battleground in the Picrocholine war between Grandgousier and Picrochole, an episode inspired in its time by the conflict between Francis the first and Charles the fifth. The novel, Gargantua, ends with the foundation of the Abbey of Theleme and its famous motto: Do as you please! La Devinière is the only museum dedicated to this humanist author; it is strongly evocative and a brilliant introduction to the famous Rabelais, master word-juggler and creator of humorous stories. Rabelais’ work is inseparable from the Chinon region. The presence of his birthplace and the fame of his imaginary heroes that populate his childhood haunts make this region a fantasy world called Rabelaisie. This portrait of the writer, a man who liked to eat and be merry, the archetype of the art of French living, is an amalgam of Rabelais the man and his grinning giants—Grandgousier, Gargamelle, and Gargantua. Still today, the adjectives Gargantuan, Rabelaisian and Pantagruelian evoke bawdy jokes, bombastics and ribaldry. The giants imposed and created the face of Rabelais. The collective imagination has made it the symbol of the national, satirical, rebellious Gallic spirit—but that view of Rabelais is more mythical than literary. This delightful vision should not, however, overshadow the man’s depth—he was a physician, jurist, scholar, writer and philosopher.

Richelais, incredible biodiversity

This green path runs through the heart of the Loire Anjou Touraine Regional Nature Park, a vast protected area home to countless species of flora and fauna. A treasure to protect!

It is made up of a mosaic of landscapes, diverse soils and natural settings. A study assessing the state of conservation and evolution of biodiversity in the park found there to be 329 butterfly species, 17 bat species all protected in France, 186 bird species and 38 fish species including 12 fairly rare ones. But the Park is the realm of 52 dragonfly species, over half of which are native to France! There’s a wide variety of ducks here because of the migration routes along the Loire River and its tributaries such as the Vienne. Here you’ll find the common pochard, a diving duck that’s rare to see in the Touraine during the breeding period, the cattle egret on the Assay Lake (a species that often joins cattle in the meadows, hence the name) and the very rare long-tailed duck. Plant species in the Park area include the snake’s head fritillary which is one of the gems that gives the damp meadows a purple glow in early spring. This lily is now protected. The royal fern has become rare and is the only deciduous fern in our regions. Its frilly leaves often loom higher than a man standing up! The park is home to forty-odd species of orchid on the limestone grass and peaty marshes. The disappearance of their natural habitat is now the main reason for the decline in orchids. The park has spent years working to protect them and has conducted a full inventory of these flowers and implemented appropriate management programmes.

Local products: gastronomical treasures.

Exquisite products appreciated by true gourmets are cultivated in Richelieu, such as saffron, truffles and asparagus. The region also produces goat’s cheese, including the renowned Sainte-Maure-de-Touraine.

Saffron is the dried stigma from the pistil of the crocus flower. It’s easily recognisable, with its threads shaped like thin trumpets at each end. Planted in July and August, the flowers appear from October to November and are gathered daily at dawn. They are then dried between 40 and 60 degrees C. 150,000 flowers are needed to obtain one kilogram of saffron, and only 2 kilograms are marketed each year in Richelieu. In food, saffron has a subtle, slightly bitter taste. It brings colour to dishes and accentuates their flavours. It’s the priciest spice in the world! Black truffles are found in calcareous soil at a depth of less than 6 inches at the foot of “truffle” trees, like holm oak, hazelnut, and so on. Black truffles appear spontaneously, develop in the spring and grow from mid-August to harvest time, between December and mid-March. Truffles generally weigh between zero point 7 to 3.5 ounces, with a few up to 1 pound. Richelieu produces no more than one metric tonne of them. Asparagus is part of the Lili-aceae family and thrives in light, well-drained, deep sandy soils. It’s harvested from April to June. 250 tonnes are produced annually in Richelieu. There are three types in the region: white asparagus, which never sees light and is delicate in taste; purple asparagus, of which only the tip sees daylight; and green asparagus, which grows fully in light and has a more pronounced taste. This exquisite vegetable was very much appreciated by Francis the first and other French kings. Louis XIV had it grown in Versailles. Sainte-Maure-de-Touraine is the flagship cheese of the region. Made of whole raw milk, it is a soft cheese and weighs on average half a pound. Its thin rind is often grey-blue, with a fine, uniform white texture. In 1990, this cheese was granted an AOC appelation which covers Indre-et-Loire and a few of the surrounding townships. After a slow curdling process, the cheese is moulded into strainers. Once drained, it is salted and often covered in ash. The region produced nearly 1,600 metric tonnes in 2015.

The City of the Cardinal : a model of urban planning

The Ideal City in Richelieu was born of the ambition of the 17th century cardinal.
It was meant to celebrate the grandeur of the French monarchy. The park brings to life the domain’s past splendour.

In 1624, Richelieu joined the Council of Louis the thirteenth and became his top minister. Attached to the family dwelling where he spent part of his childhood, he decided to expand it. His political ascension pushed him to erect a grandiose palace. Jacques Lemercier, a brilliant architect, was charged with the project. The cardinal obtained the king’s authorisation to build a village surrounded by walls and moats as a reward for the many services he’d rendered the State. At his death in 1642, this city-castle grouping was completed.

The sumptuous décor of the imposing 600-metre-long palace highlighted the great deeds of Louis XIII and Richelieu. This magnificent castle, which served as a model to Louis XIV for the construction of the castle of Versailles, was set in a tableau of greenery that combined gardens, water and architecture. The dukes of Richelieu continued to embellish the family property right up to the Revolution.

In 1805, the domain was purchased by a merchant who dismantled the castle and dispersed the collections. The park itself was finally subdivided.

Although the castle was destroyed, the Ideal City in Richelieu has remained practically intact. Chalk-lined and built according to very precise mathematical calculations, this model of urban planning was rigorously articulated by the principles of symmetry, unity and axial alignment. The city has preserved its rampart and imposing gates, monumental church, magnificent halls and beautiful, original hotels that were reserved for important personages.

Its innovative plan is organised around two symmetrical squares, named in the 17th century as Place Cardinale and Place Royale. And so the two foundations of political power in France were transposed into the city plans.

Ligré and Rivière: Discover our rich heritage

The Chinon region has plenty to discover—castles, churches and other points of interest have lain in wait for centuries, surprising curious visitors. They are just a few minutes away and worth the detour.

These two villages are steeped in history! The discovery of sarcophagi from the Roman Gaul era attests to the antiquity of Rivière. The Roman-style Notre-Dame church is interesting despite the repair work done following the damages inflicted by Protestants in 1562. It was built using chalk limestone—called tufa—on the site of an ancient sanctuary where Saint Martin, bishop of Tours and Sainte Radegonde, prayed.

In the nave, with its imposing size for a village church, visitors are surprised by the myriad bright paintings that were added in the 19th century, giving the building a modern cachet. There are two notable bas-reliefs, the Virgin of the Annunciation and Visitation, and two capitals, the Crucifixion and animals. In the village, the “Chateau” from 1850 is characterised by a wonderful symmetry and abundant decoration.

The village of Ligré has several beautiful castles and historical homes, all private and unfortunately closed to visitors. The manors of Rajace, Villeneuve and Vau-Breton, the castle of Sassay, and the manor and water mill in Beauvais are stunning. A number of discoveries are also to be made around Ligré —the remarkable hamlet of Roches Saint-Paul with its 16th and 17th century homes; and a windmill with its wooden mill post.

The windmill is called ‘cavier’ because it was built over a cellar, or cave. The miller was also a winemaker. An original tombstone in the Ligré cemetery, circular in shape, contains the remains of a former Chinon mayor who wanted to be buried standing up!

The spectacular seven-metre long Carroir-Bon Air dolmen is one of the few remaining megaliths salvaged in Touraine. And in Quellay, one of the most beautiful underground refuges in Chinon is made up of six chambers linked by narrow tubes with aeration vents, seats and a silo. There are also a few caves; as well as troglodytes here and there in the meadows.

Champigny-sur-Veude bears the imprint of the Renaissance

The arrival of the Bourbons in 1472 made its mark on the village architecture. The Sainte Chapelle with its remarkable stained-glass windows was preserved, along with the ancient castle’s elegant commons.

Louis the first of Bourbon, who accompanied Charles the seventh to Italy at the end of the 15th century, decided upon his return to transform his modest medieval home. He began the construction of a magnificent château, inspired by the Italian Renaissance, along with a chapel. This ambitious architectural project was completed by his son, Louis the second of Bourbon, in 1545. The following century saw the castle pass into the hands of Gaston d’Orléans. In 1635 it was razed on Richelieu’s orders, in retaliation for the numerous plots against him by the King’s brother. The ancient commons of the château were spared, and evoke its past splendour.

The Sainte-Chapelle, which contained the relics of the Passion, was saved when Pope Urban the eighth intervened. Inspired by the prestigious Sainte-Chapelle in Paris, it adopted its architectural aspect, but its refined decoration reflects an Italian influence

To build this exceptional ensemble, the Bourbons called on the greatest masters. The nave contains 11 eight-metre-high stained-glass windows. The magic of the Renaissance stained glass bathes the chapel in a supernatural, fairy-like atmosphere. It is reputed to be the most beautiful Renaissance stained glass in France. Treated as paintings, the windows evoke the life of St. Louis, a Bourbon ancestor, and celebrate this king’s greatness.

In the village you’ll find gorgeous, beautifully decorated homes. The rue des Cloîtres is lined by the homes of canons working in the service of the Sainte-Chapelle.

Many religious buildings reflect the piety of the seigneurs of Champigny. In front of the station stand the imposing vestiges of the convent of Minimes, founded in 1600 by Henri de Bourbon, along with the Notre-Dame-de-Lorette chapel.

Château du Rivau and its fairytale grounds

The château, stables and 6 hectare grounds welcome visitors for a fun-filled adventure in a realm oozing wonder, botanics, history and art. Let the magic of the setting whisk you away…

The castle, stables and 6 hectare grounds welcome visitors for a fun-filled adventure in a realm oozing wonder, botanics, history and art. Let the magic of the setting whisk you away…
This château is entirely devoted to the world of children and one of the liveliest of the Loire Châteaux. The site is home to incredible architecture: a fortress with its impressive keep, towers, drawbridge and large royal residence with fabulous furniture. Château du Rivau was visited by Joan of Arc who came for horses for the siege of Orléans and Rabelais. The royal stables from the Renaissance period (where the French Kings’ war horses were bred), the historical farm building and contemporary grounds listed as “Jardin Remarquable” enhance the château’s appeal to tourists. It took almost 25 years and the passion of the Laigneau family to restore this gem. Château du Rivau looks like a child’s drawing of a castle; here they’ll find a château straight from their imagination with crenels, a drawbridge and even ghosts! But this is a real château bringing together knights and ladies, Joan of Arc and Rabelais, horsemen and proud steeds, ogres and fairies… The old walls still echo the sounds of sword fights, neighing royal horses bred in the stables and songs by troubadours. Rivau’s 14 fairytale gardens take visitors to a dreamworld. Take a walk into the wonderful world of your childhood! Little ones love the maze in their knight or princess outfits. Sensory aficionados can soak up the subtle scents of the rows of roses whilst enthusiasts head to the Gargantua vegetable garden. Everyone gets together to sample the garden’s vegetables at La Table des Fées, the château’s very own restaurant.